Working with vets, other fosters, and using current research, I've come up with this panleukopenia protocol that has increased recovery rates from 50% to 90%. It is based on Kitten Lady's protocol with some modifications. I have used it with success on several fosters, and at least 3 rescues in the Denver area use it with success as well. Finding all this info in one place is extremely tough, so I hope this will help other rescues and fosters and at least give you place to start.
*Please note: I am not a vet and in each case, the protocol was started after a positive parvo test given by a vet or vet tech. Supportive care, such as fluids, and seeking out immediate medical care should be provided for any kitten with diarrhea and vomiting, regardless of the diagnosis.
It is possible to beat panleuk, so don’t give up hope!
ISOLATION:
Isolate anyone showing symptoms from those who are not in an easy-to-disinfect- space
Quarantine those exposed but not showing symptoms for two weeks. Do not return them back to the symptomatic unless they start showing symptoms. (This group should also receive tamiflu for the entire 2 weeks). After 2 weeks with no symptoms, they are considered “clear.”
If possible, move any non-exposed, asymptomatic fosters out of the home to prevent any continued risk of exposure.
Do not bring any new kittens or unvaccinated cats into the home.
Do not share supplies between the groups.
Change clothes and shower between groups. Use foot covers, gloves and a gown if possible.
Panleuk is extremely contagious and hardy, so disinfecting all supplies is key. Boiling water, high temp steam, sanitize setting on the dishwasher and washing machine, and rescue disinfectant work best on panleuk.
Wash any clothing/blankets, etc using rescue disinfectant
Panleuk can be shed in their feces for several weeks post-symptoms, so it’s important anyone symptomatic not interact with anyone not fully vaccinated.
Most supplies, especially those made of porous material, should be discarded after the kittens have left the home.
MEDICATIONS:
(Note: I understand this is a lot, and many vets may be unwilling to prescribe some of these medications. If concessions need to be made, at bare minimum, antibiotics and consistent fluids are imperative. Remember: you are your kitten's only advocate, and many vets do not regularly treat young kittens. You may need to push back or see another vet to get needed treatment.)
Tamiflu (Start immediately and give to anyone expose regardless of symptoms) – fights the actual virus. Those who are asymptomatic should receive tamiflu for the full 2 week quarantine period.
Baytril (prescription, may need to call closest vet to see if they’ll prescribe. Start immediately) – antibiotic - fights the bacteria that move into the damaged intestines (this bacteria and/or dehydration, not the virus, is usually what kills the animal, so it’s very important to treat it right away)
Clavamox (If no access to Baytril, start this immediately instead) - antibiotic. For especially bad cases, you may want to use both to have full-spectrum coverage.
Mirtazapine (prescription) – appetite stimulant
Cerenia – (prescription) anti-nausea, injection works best for first dose if vomiting present
Pepcid (over the counter) - antacid
Metamucil or other fiber supplement (over the counter) - fiber
Pet Tinic (to mix the tamilflu in and provide iron, can get at a vet, Chewy or amazon) – vitamin supplement
Fluids - (prescription) again, dehydration is a leading cause of death with panleuk, not the actual virus
B12 – supplement (prescription)
Probiotics (Amazon)
Pedialyte and/or kitten lyte (grocery store or online)
FVRCP vaccines (vet) for anyone not showing any symptoms. Vaccinate immediately according to vaccine schedule
Antibody Serum (this is not always available. Your rescue or vet may be able to do a blood drive or try to find a clinic with access to a blood bank)
DOSAGE:
Tamiflu: mix a 75 mg pill into 10 mls of Pet tinic (only mix one pill at a time, as it does not hold up well. Keep refrigerated. Can last 5 days this way). .2ml/lb of this mixture every 12 hours for 7 days. Give to anyone exposed regardless of symptoms.
Baytril: This is an intramuscular injection that can come in different strengths. Follow dosage on bottle. Shot is given 1x a day for 5 days.
Clavamox: .1ml/lb every 12 hours for 7 days
Mirtazapine: dab a small amount in your pinky and rub it into the inner corner of the ear every 24 hours until eating entirely on their own (5-7 days)
Cerenia: if doing a pill, 1mg/lb – the most common size pill is 16mg, but please check the box (sometimes for kittens the dosage is so small, its okay to grind up the pill, and get a tiny amount on your pinky and swipe it across their tongue) every 24 hours. If doing injection, try to do after getting subq fluids, because it stings. For injections it’s 1mg/kg or as prescribed by your vet. Give until no longer vomiting (5-7 days)
Pecid: 2.5mg 1x a day mixed into food or slurry (whatever they’re eating) – pills are usually 10mg, so ¼ pill per kitten. Continue until symptoms subside (5-7 days)
Metamucil: a pinch mixed into food at every feeding. Continue until symptoms subside (5-7 days)
Pet Tinic: for mixing tamiflu
Fluids: every 8 hours for the first 4-5 days or as diarrhea and vomiting improve. Can then move to every 10 hours and then every 12 hours, until they no longer have any symptoms. 10ml/lb
B12: .25ml regardless of weight, once a week. Should be given with subq fluids since it stings. It is water soluble so can be given up to every 3 days. Continue as long as fluids are needed.
Probiotics: mixed with every feeding. Continue even after symptoms subside.
Pedialyte or Kitten Lyte: Mixed into every feeding. Continue as long as vomiting and/or diarrhea are present
FVRCP vaccine: ONLY for those NOT showing symptoms
Antibody Serum: follow dosage instructions from vet. The sickest kitten gets the highest dose and down the line (if there are multiple sick ones)
Make sure they eat every 4 hours. You may need to force feed using a syringe.
Check temp every 6 hours (needed less as they improve). Microchip with a temp chip if possible. They may go from very high fevers to very low temps. 99 to 102 is normal. Heat sources may need to be provided or removed as their temp fluctuates.
If below normal, provide a pet safe heat source. Cats lose heat through their tummies, so concentrating on getting the heat to that area is best. A snuggle safe heat disk works well too.
If fever, follow fever protocols (cooling down their feet, putting them on a cool floor, sub q fluids, cooling mat, fan). Anything over 105 that does not respond to subq fluids or other cooling techniques is an emergency situation. Shivering is a normal fever response of the body trying to cool itself down. DO NOT put them on a heat source.
If you can get them through the first 5 days, their chances of survival increase dramatically! Hang in there! And for a little hope, be sure to watch Kitten Lady's video.
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